Category: Dogs

Cinch, our 1.5-year-old female Vizsla, decided to give us another first in the form of a huge curveball for this outdoor-loving family—severe hives. From all the dogs myself or my husband have owned, we’ve never experienced a severe allergic reaction in our dogs. At least, not to the extent Cinch experienced over the 4th of July. Sure, we’ve had the occasional swelling from a bug bite, but Cinch really outdid herself.

On the morning of the 4th of July, Cinch broke out in hives all over her little body. At first, it was only on her head, and then quickly it was all over, from snout to tail. As you can imagine, we were terrified that she was going to go into anaphylactic shock. To make matters worse, we were at the minimum two hours away from the nearest emergency vet open on Independence Day.

Tips for Managing Severe Allergic Reactions in Dogs

Now that we are on the other side and Cinch seems to be doing better (although any little bump or bug bite she gets I still monitor closely for an outbreak), I can give my tips to other dog owners that might go through a similar experience.

Tip 1: Add Benadryl to Your Doggy First Aid

Dogs can have 1 25mg pill for every 25 pounds of body weight. Although Cinch is 46 pounds, her vet cleared that she can take 2 pills for a total of 50mg. During allergic outbreaks, these can be given to the dog every 8-12 hours. We would give Cinch a dose in the morning, and then once again about an hour before bed.

Tip 2: Limit Outside Exposure

During an allergic outbreak, limit your dog’s time spent outdoors, especially if the cause of the hives is unknown. For three days, we only let Cinch outdoors to use the restroom. Trust me, this was hard for a little outdoorsy sun-bathing pup. She wanted so badly to run around in the trees or lay on the grass soaking up some sun.

Tip 3: Keep Them Calm

Any raised anxiety or blood pressure can worsen the hives. If your dog is like Cinch, that is easier said than done. However, since not too long ago we were in Spay Recovery Protocol, it was easy to bring that back. This meant a lot of cuddles and naps. If we weren’t busy, neither was she.

Tip 4: Call Your Vet

Even if Benadryl helps and makes the hives go away, you should take your pal in and have them checked out. The vet will look for bug bites, stings, or any indication that could be the reason for the reaction. They will also want to listen to their heart and internal organs, since any severe allergic reaction can be hard on their body. From that follow-up, they will determine if treatment is needed in addition to Benadryl.

Tip 5: Know That This Is Normal and Usually a One-Time Thing

Most dogs, unless their severe reaction is a known allergy like bees or wasps, will not have a severe allergic outbreak again. You know your dog best, and if they just aren’t back to their normal self, never hesitate to ring the vet, even if it’s just to get reassurance from them.

The Ordeal and Treatment

After a mad dash down a canyon from where we live and across three counties, we made it to the emergency vet. Let me tell you, that entire drive was nerve-racking. I was constantly listening to Cinch’s breathing and monitoring the progression of hives. She was not in a good state. Even Roper, our other dog, was nervous and wrapped himself around her like he could protect her. (If you know Roper, you know that him cuddling is HUGE.)

Luckily, we made it to the vet without any anaphylactic shock occurring. Once at the vet, they took her immediately back—sorry to everyone that had been waiting over an hour to be seen—due to the state she was in. The vet on staff administered a strong dose of an antihistamine and gave Cinch a steroid injection. Both stabilized her and allowed the hives to go down. Once we were discharged, we were on orders to continue with Benadryl and follow up with our primary vet on Monday after the holiday.

The follow-up appointment was a complete check-up to make sure that they couldn’t find anything that would have made Cinch have a reaction. Since all checked out and the reaction cause was unknown, the vet sent us home with a 7-day prescription of Prednisone, which is a steroid. At the appointment, I expressed my concern that we spend a lot of time outdoors and in far-out places and wasn’t sure what would happen if she had an outbreak when we were away from civilization. Since I expressed my concerns, the vet gave us extra Prednisone on the off chance she had a reaction out in the backcountry, which would give us enough time to get back into a town with a vet.

I want to advocate for all of us pet owners and reassure ourselves to speak up to our vets about our pets since we know them best. No matter the question or concern, the vet will not think less of you; in fact, they will think of you as a good animal owner.

This experience was definitely scary, but all that matters is Cinch is back to her playful and hive-free self. As always, with any medical concern for your pet, never hesitate to reach out to your vet!

Pictures of when the hives first appeared, in my panic state to get her to the vet, I unfortunately did not get images of how severe it really got – just imagine these pictures below but about two times worse and all of her body:
Spaying can be a traumatic experience for both owner and dog, from having to drop off your beloved girl at the vets office in the morning, to the two-week after care from surgery. Not only can it be on the traumatic side, it can cause stress in the household, especially if there is another dog AND your dog is an active breed. We fit both of those bills. Which is why I wanted to document each step of the way, to hopefully help out the next person who has to go through this experience.

What to Expect Leading up to Surgery:

Warning – The rest of the blog will contain pictures of the incision site to show the progress of Cinch’s healing journey.

Leading up to the day of surgery, your vet will ask you to not allow your dog to eat or drink after a certain time period – depending on the drop of time. This is extremely important to follow, since having anything in the stomach can increase the risk of sickness.

The Day Of Surgery:

The day the dog gets spayed will be one of the hardest and easiest days out of the entire healing process. Hard because you have to drop off your four-legged pal off super early in the morning at the vets office, and will not pick them up until later in the afternoon, when they are still fighting the effects of the drugs. Easy because they will be totally out of it when they get home and you won’t have to worry about them running or jumping.

Why does my dog have to be at the vet all day? Typically, surgery will happen in the morning and this will give the vet and techs a chance to monitor the dog for several hours before going home. They will be looking for signs of complications, sickness, and verifying they come out of anesthesia. This schedule will vary with your vet, so make sure to talk them about the expectations and what will happen.

If you have a larger dog, be prepared that you may have to carry them at pick up, and again once they get home. Sometimes due to the anesthesia, they don’t quite have control of their legs. Since they will be down for the count when you get home, make sure to already have a spot ready for them that will be comfortable and nearby you or their co-owner. The day would have been scary for them and the disorientation of the drugs will make them even more needy than usual.

You will also want to be prepared for the cone of shame – however full transparency, we didn’t have Cinch wear her cone for too long because of the amount of stress it caused her. We simply made sure she was monitored at all times to ensure she didn’t get after her new incision.

Side-Note: To bypass the cone at night since she likes to sleep with Roper on their dog bed (under a blanket) we opted for a body suit designed for dogs after surgery. The one we used was Suitical Recovery Suit for Dogs, available on Amazon. We don’t have any affiliation with the recovery suit, just were super pleased with the comfort it gave Cinch.

Your Vet will have also sent home pain medication and a course of antibiotics. These generally start the day after surgery. If your dog isn’t great at taking pills (like Cinch), be prepared to crush them up OR hide them in a snack. We had to crush them up and put them in some of their boiled venison, since if the pill was whole, she would spit it out.

Recovery Days 1-2:

The first and second day of recovery will be pretty low key since anesthesia effects and pain will keep them mellow. At this time, the incision site will still be inflamed and may even having some bruising. Watch for any additional redness, swelling, and if it’s hot to the touch. Due to the glue on the outside of the site, it will be crusty and will continue to be so until the glue comes off. Remember that the stitched are internal and the glue is external.

Days 3 & 4:

Once we hit the third day of recovery, Cinch was starting to get some of her energy back. This made things a little bit more difficult to manage, as she was not allowed to jump or run – two things she loves. This was especially difficult when her “dad” got home. To help with her excitement, he would let me know when he was about to pull in so I could hold her and prevent her from jumping up and down. IF you are at this point in your pups healing journey and are starting to feel like it’s going to be a long two weeks, don’t worry – you got this!

The incision site will still be crusty from the glue & will have bruising. Again, look out for any puss or additional swelling. At this time as activity levels rise, start to look for any openings of the incision that could indicate stitching has opened up.

Day 5 & 6:

You will definitely start feeling the stress of keeping activity levels down by day 5. We also stopped all pain medication by Day 5 as well, as she didn’t seem to need it anymore. Day 6 was a scary day for me, because it was the day the glue came off. I thought for sure Cinch had somehow gotten after her incision site. So, after a frantic call to Gage and then the Vet’s office, I was able to send in a picture to her Vet who kindly informed me that all was well. SO, if one day it’s a crusty wound and the next the glue is gone, don’t panic. It’s all part of the process. Our vet did advise us to apply Neosporin to the wound site at this time. We did this with a Q-tip as to not let our hands (which potentially could have germs) touch the site.

Day 7 & 8:

Once you hit the one-week point, the healing process really speeds up. It was during these days we saw the most improvement with the initial inflammation and bruising. Just be warned, all energy levels will be back to normal and there will be minimal pain in movement. Be sure to still limit how much running and jumping is being done.

Day 9 & 10:

All I can say is, you’re almost there! At least that’s what I keep reminding myself every time Cinch tried to jump or play with Roper.

Day 11 & 12:

The 12 day recovery period has been completed! We went ahead and made it an even two weeks, but definitely talk to your vet. As you can see in the picture below, she was completely healed by the 12th day.

If you are going through the spay recovery, or you are about to, just remember that this is temporary and you will get through it. Find what works best for you and your family, whether it’s the cone, a surgery suit, or something different. All dogs react differently as well, just know that you know them best and when in doubt, call the vet! They understand that this is a scary time for you as well, especially if this is your first spay.

If you have any tips or tricks on what worked for you, I would love to hear about them!

I’m off to throw a stick for Cinch now that she’s back to 100%.
Cinching Wild Quaky Path aka Cinch aka Little Copper Dog has officially been with our family for a year – and what a year it has been. Cinch has brought so much fun, spunk, and cuddles to our family that even Roper (The original Copper Dog) has become wrapped around her little paw.

Cinch girl is a 1 year old Vizsla and every ounce of her is pure Vizsla, made up of energy, velcro, love, and an abundance of will to work. Anyone who meets her falls instantly in love with the wild patch that she is. Whereas Roper could care less about cuddles and pets (even though when he wants them, he gives the best of the best), Cinch lives for them and tries to figure out how to get closer than touching.

Throughout this last year, growing from puppy to adolescence, she has adapted to our outdoorsy lifestyle like the versatile hunting breed that she is and loves all things birds, bones, and big game.

It all started during her first camping trip at the whopping age of 14 weeks. We’re crazy, we know. But after that first time, the tent and wild outdoors became a second home to her. She joined us on all of our camping and hunting trips from that first time and has learned like her brother, what each tool means, shotgun – birds, bow & rifle – big game, no weapon – hiking!

Although her first bird season was a success, she did follow her brothers lead on most hunts – letting him do the pointing and her the fun part – flushing! She has proven to be a great little bird catcher when they take off running from just being winged. We’re hoping to work on her point game, as well as her retrievals.

Like any good Vizsla, her work and prey drive are strong, and requires daily activity that tests her physically and mentally. Although she is totally fine lounging on a comfy couch or sunbathing on the grass, the moment she is allowed to let loose, all bets are off and she won’t be done until we tell her to. Although she may not be the workaholic like Roper, she does well keeping up with his pace.

In fact, the little copper dog has completely changed the dynamics of our household. Where we use to have to take Roper on daily runs to make sure he’s getting his physical activity in, nowadays, Cinch girl is more than happy to chase him around the yard and play hard until both of them are exhausted.

If Cinch isn’t terrorizing Roper or working, you can find her chewing on a stick or bone. We like to think she’s part beaver for how quickly she can destroy wood, and has found the “no sticks in the house” rule rather exasperating. Especially when we brought an entire tree inside for Christmas. She may not annoy you with her insistent need to have a ball thrown, but she does her part by stealing the ball and driving Roper mad.

The Adventures of Roper and Cinch are a day to day experience and we can’t wait to watch their bond grow even stronger.

Our next installment will be a Lesson From Cinch, stay tuned!
Whether it’s your first time camping with the dogs, or you have a few trips under your belt, the age old question always comes up, “what do we need for the dog?”

Aside from the necessities like food and water, the rest depends on you. Right, very helpful, you must be thinking.

But, hear me out. I’m sure you’ve researched and have become extremely overwhelmed about the extensive packing lists of so called must-haves for camping with canines.

And truth be told, it all comes down to the type of environment you’re going, and your dogs’ normal behavior. You don’t need everything under the sky, and after 8 years of camping with a dog almost every weekend, we’ve been able to put our packing list to the test. And if you’ve met Roper, you know he’s put it to the test.

So, we’ve already determined food and water are always on the list. If you’re wondering how much to pack of each, consider the level activities that your dog partakes in. However, a good rule of thumb is pack an extra cup per day. If the camping is nothing but hiking or running for the dog, bump it up to two cups extra. OR, you can get great protein packs that top kibble (we make our own, learn how here). Water, if you’re camping somewhere with no access to fresh water plan for a gallon of water a day.

The rest of the essentials (to us) by category:

First-aid: Tweezers, vet wrap, vet approved anti-inflammatory pills (they make over the counter stuff, however talk to your vet if you’re planning a long back country trip. Odds are they might make you your own little first aid kit in the office), probiotics, Benadryl, thermometer.

Camp: sleeping materials, tall bowls, toy (if nature & sticks don’t do it for your dog). If your dog normally gets a lot of treats at home, be sure to pack some, or else expect them to find their own.

Optional: A collar light. These things are extremely helpful for the darkness that comes with camping outside of light pollution. If you have an extra headlamp, turn the green or red light on and place that on your dog instead.

Activity: leads, mushers secret, collapsible bowl or dog bottle, and booties if in rough terrain.

Bonus items that are packed by environment:

Cold Weather/Snow: thermals and dog sleeping bag for severe winter, tarp for a dry place to lay outside

Desert: A second pair of tweezers, wet dog food, pumpkin purée, or coconut oil.

Wetlands: towel, peppermint oil for mosquitos,

As always, you know your dog best. And if there are no accidents, they only need what they have at home. Food, water, and a soft warm place to sleep. I also encourage to talk about camping, hunting, farm work, in your vet appointments. It’s helpful for your vet to know about outdoor activities, that way they can treat your dog with the correct dewormers and tick medication. So, put away your fears, and the expansive packing list, and go enjoy the great outdoors with your four-legged best friends!

The Copper Dogs hope you enjoy all of your future adventures! Here’s a glimpse into some of our camping moments – peep the cacti on Roper, he’s now much more careful in the desert.
Whether you just purchased a floppy eared puppy to be your future hunting partner, or you don’t want to have a dog that is scared of fireworks or other loud bangs, then desensitizing your dog to loud noises a must.

However, it must be done slowly and strategically, or else you could be left with a scared and anxious dog. In the hunting world, we call these dogs Gun Shy. To non-hunters, it’s the dog that has be to put up in a room in the house with the TV blaring so they can’t hear the fireworks on the 4th of July. But, what most people do not realize is that a dog is not born Gun-Shy. It’s created.

Developing a plan to introduce your dog to guns (or loud noises) can be a challenge within itself, because of the amount of information available. The internet tells you to wait until a certain age before any type of loud noise is implemented into the dog’s life, while your uncle that’s had dog his whole life says “don’t listen to any of that crap and just take your dog out in the field and shoot the gun, it’ll be fine”. And we all know it won’t be fine. Which is why I’ve put together the most helpful tips that I have found while training puppies to be hunting dogs, including what to do when a gun blast is finally introduced to the dog.

Tip #1: Determine The End Goal

This one isn’t a tip for the dog, but rather you the handler. Determine what it is that you want your dog to feel comfortable doing. Is it bird hunting with shot guns, the slam of cattle guards out herding, or is the outcome to just not have a noise sensitive dog? Either way, before starting any training plan, know the end goal, or else you will never find your way there with the consistency that is needed when training a dog.

Tip #2: Bring out the Pots and Pans during Feeding Time

Feeding time is the perfect opportunity to start introducing soft bings and bangs. And since pots and pans are the source of all unintentional loud bangs in the kitchen, they make for great natural training aides. Before you run into your puppy’s feeding time banging on a pot like it’s the New Year, begin by lightly hitting the pot with a wooden spoon while standing at least five feet away. While you make the noise, you may notice that your dog stops eating for a second. If they continue to eat after a moment, you may continue the noise. If they stop eating all together, put away the pot and try again tomorrow. This first part will take patience, but as the days go on, you will be able to increase the noise level you make. The purpose behind this technique is to train your dog to associate something good – like food – with loud noises.

Tip #3: Utilize Background Noise

Ever notice how when you’re focused on something you don’t notice or hear life going on around you? Puppies go through the same experience. If they’re totally tuckered out, or out in the yard romping around, utilize consistent background noises to build disinterest in sounds around them. Not one time loud noises that will causes startling, but something that can create noise for a period of time. Like a speaker playing music, TV, your neighbors power tools, or even the vacuum.

At first, your pup may notice these sounds, especially when they first start-up, but if they were sleeping, simple pets and/or soft coos will more than likely put them right back to sleep, especially if they are under 3 months old. If you are out playing, get excited and put their attention back on you or their toy. By teaching them how to become disinterested in noises will also help you in training them how to ignore things on command. (Our go to is “Leave it”).

Pro-Tip: Have access to a construction site that would be safe for a dog? Or is there construction going on next to a park? Take them! Construction can be extremely loud, but if they are spending time with their favorite human and exploring new territory, they will immediately forget all about the loud noises.

Tip #4: Introduce Recorded Sounds

Whether it a shot-gun blast or a fire-work boom, these are the most common noises to make a dog shy. However, the first time they hear these sounds does not have to be in person where the noise level is overwhelming. Before actually introducing the puppy to the loud noise it will be around, start by playing the recorded sound of said subject. Obviously not at an ear piercing level. If the end goal is hunting, playing hunting shows on the TV with the same type of gun you will be shooting in the field, and the same prey type, will help familiarize your puppy with the sounds it will eventually be immersed in.

Tip #5: Introduce Gun shots between 5 and 6 months old.

Introducing a gun shot to your dog should happen between 5 and 6 months. If you wait too long, your risk of having a gun-shy dog goes up. Same if you start too early. On the day of the introduction, use the following steps to go from bird dog to gun dog:

Step 1: Determine which gun you want to train with. I always opt for a shot-gun since that is the gun used while bird hunting. If your dog is going to be hunting with different types of guns, feel free to bring them along if all goes as planned to shoot them after the initial introduction.

Step 2: Figure out what kind of play/toy excites your dog the most. You will want to take that toy to the place you will be shooting. If you’ve already introduced birds to your puppy and you have a frozen wing, this is the perfect distraction and training aide. Loud noise = birds.

Step 3: Have one person stay with the puppy to play, while the other person walks at least 100 yards away with the gun. When the puppy is playing, shoot the first shot. If the puppy does not show any signs of distress – ears pinned back, tail tucked – continue to step 3. If they do show signs, you will want to be done for the day and try again after working on more noise training.

Step 3: Walk forward 20 yards and shoot. If no distress, repeat until 20 yards away. If distress starts to happen, stop and try again a different day, starting again at 100 yards.

Step 4: At this point your puppy may have noticed you and what you are doing. If they haven’t already ran over, call them and let them smell the gun. The smell of gun-fire is distinct and it’s important to let the dog know where the scent belongs too.

Step 5: After allowing the puppy to smell the gun, the shoot can now engage with the puppy and the toy. After a minute of playing, try shooting the gun in close range. For example, play and then throw the toy. While the puppy is retrieving, shoot the gun. If your puppy has not shown any distress after this last shot, you now have a gun dog.

Just remember, patience is key and you will want to watch your dog closely for any sign of anxiety.

Bonus Tip: Already have a trusted hunting dog? Bring them along for this introduction! A puppy will feed off of the other dog’s energy, and when they do not show any sign of fear towards the gun, it will help ease the puppy’s fear as well.
Phew, made it to the 3 months of having two vizslas under one roof. And not just any vizslas, but one of them happens to be the first Copper dog, Roper. Meet Roper here.

Looking back now, there were a lot of little moments that were actually huge stepping stones into where we are today. So, let’s start with the 3:3:3 rule that became our mantra:

• 3 days of being overwhelmed and anxious

• 3 weeks of settling in

• 3 months of building trust and a bond

Normally, the 3:3:3 rule applies to dogs that are adopted from a shelter and are settling into their new home. However, after doing more reading on the rule, I came the conclusion that it could be a baseline for any dog that is having his home-life and daily routine impacted in a big way. And a puppy was surely a big impact. Read how we went from the bad, to the good, and to the copper trusting in the 3:3:3 method.

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The First 3 Days: The Bad

Luckily, we implemented strategies to make the puppy transition easier, and Cinch displayed little to no anxiety coming into a new home. Puppies are so resilient, but far could be said for Roper. Even though the 3 days of anxiety weren’t necessarily from “whose this?” Because we had acquainted them through smell prior to bringing Cinch home, and more of Roper going “she’s not leaving? Why does she like my bones? Why is she on my bed? How come she wakes me up? Why is she in MY spot in MY TRUCK.” and most of these questions were not answered in the most friendliest of ways. Don’t be alarmed, little Cinch girl was never hurt. Roper never attacked or bit, just no nonsense growls and get back snarls. Think of it as good lessons for Cinch to learn body language and tones when a dog is telling her to back off.

However, I’ll be honest. There were a few moments where I thought I didn’t even know my fun loving, harding working, Roper dog. We definitely consulted our vet (which I highly recommend if you ever have a question about behavior, people only associate vets to medical, but they can answer to the entire animal), who assured us that since Roper wasn’t making contact, and felt remorse after his outburst, he’s simply drawing his line with the new pup. And that puppies can be annoying, which made us all laugh.

After Day 1, we knew that we were going to have to help Roper adjust a little easier. After being an only dog for the last two years, and only 3.5, sharing his humans and home was almost unthinkable. Luckily, and I’ll be the first to admit how fortunate we were to be able to do what we did, and that not everyone going through a similar situation could be able to do. We split the dogs up during the day.

Back Story: When we first got Roper, I was a full time 11th & 12th grade English teacher, and so Gage actually took Roper to work with him to his job sites (the family builds custom homes). We felt whole heartedly that was the cause for Roper’s love of the truck and his calmness in them. Literally, put Roper in the truck and he’s content for hours. Like hours. Can’t get him out. Makes it convenient for long trips though, that’s for sure.

We knew we wanted Cinch to be just as comfortable in the vehicle as Roper. What we didn’t anticipate, was needing to take Cinch to work just to give Roper is workday back.

I now work from a home office as an Education Director, and Roper gets the house and yard to himself all day long. Which meant, for the next couple of weeks, Cinch and Roper had a schedule of going to work with Dad. Because you guessed right, after a few days of Cinch going to work, Roper woke up super early, ate breakfast, and demanded it was his turn to go. We threw in days where they would both be home with me (days I had no meetings scheduled). Just to begin the inevitable of having them home together all day long, every day.

3 Weeks: The Good

It really did take every second of the 3 weeks for Roper to settle back into his own home. Because as I said above, Cinch just fit right into the folds of things and never once showed any sign of anxiety or discomfort.

It could have been the camping trip that happened in those first few weeks (that deserves its own story of lessons learned 😅), or the reassurance that his spot in the truck wasn’t taken, he still gets his runs in with dad in the afternoon, and his bed is still his bed, or maybe a little bit of all of it. But slowly, Roper started to make the turn for the good.

We still needed to give him space and show him that we had his back by not letting her jump on him or bug him while sleeping. And it was during this period that we started introducing Cinch to her job, hunting. This also helped Roper as well, because he started to step in as teacher. I’ll pause, the first time we got the bird wing out, Roper wasn’t sure about letting Cinch have it, then we reminded him there were others. Same with antlers, that was a hard line Roper put down, some Cinch could have, others (like the ones he was personally there to find) she could not.

Although those first few weeks did seem overwhelming to us as owners in the moment, things did settle down and became not so tumultuous.

3 Months: The Copper

And now we are here. Since the 3 week mark and this 3 month mark, we’ve gone from prickly housemates to almost inseparable best friends. Cheers! I won’t kid myself, there is still work to do, and there will always be work to do while while Cinch is a puppy and doesn’t always think things through.

One thing that needs to be considered is Cinch’s size throughout the last 3 months. In the first 3 days, she was tiny and now looking back, we think a lot of Roper’s troubles were just how small she was. It was his first time being with that young of a pup and he had no idea how to interact with her.

As she’s grown, he has taken her under his wing and taught her how he likes to play, the love of fetch (and sticks 🙄), and a sense of adventure.

Both dogs are home with me now and have created their own little routine together while I’m working. Which mostly consists of lounging on the couch, out in the sun catching rays, and waiting for 3pm when my meetings are over and dad gets home. From then until bedtime, it’s a blur of copper running from one end of the property to the other

Although their bond isn’t quite finished in the making, it is there and Roper has found a strong sense of protectiveness (not possessiveness) over Cinch. The feelings are returned, Cinch feels great security in the presences of Roper in situations she’s not sure of. He is the first thing she looks at when deciding her next move.

And if you’re wondering about the truck. Roper isn’t too worried about her anymore stealing his spot. With the caveat that in the dads truck (the full size Chevy), she is still kenneled on rides, and in my truck, or as Roper likes to thinks his truck (the Tacoma) because it’s the hunting truck, she gets to ride out of the kennel on dirt roads. That was a HUGE step, because it was really the Tacoma that Roper didn’t want to share. But now look them at the chumps coming home from Memorial Day weekend camping

One thing I can say for is, is if you’re going through a situation where your first dog isn’t too keen on the newest addition, stay patient and trust the 3:3:3 rule. Obviously it won’t work for all dogs, but with most things, time usually works problems out.

Here are my most helpful tips going through 3 days, 3 weeks, and 3 months of going from Cooper Dog to Copper Dogs.

Tips for the 3:3:3 Rule

3 days: provide constant supervision and give the first dog plenty of their own time and affection. Remember, These first few days might be more about comforting your first dog. Especially if you’ve taken the steps to prepare for the new puppy.

3 weeks: stick to your existing routine. Even though puppy training throws a wrench into routines, try not to change your dogs routine. They should still be let out and fed on their normal schedule. Adjust the puppy’s schedule to match as closest to the first dog. Again, puppies are resilient and go with the flow as long as the flow is consistent.

3 months: allow the dogs to build a relationship on their own terms. It may be tempting to initiate play between them, but let them do it naturally, because they will. Dogs are pack animals and are extremely social. Play WILL happen, as long as it’s on their terms. A good rule of thumb is open mouth and lots of moving- playing. Taught mouth and ears back, no longer having fun and need to be separated.

As always, if you’re ever concerned about your dogs, consult your trusted veterinarian. If you don’t have one, or have quick access to one, the AKC provides a wonderful televet program.

I’m excited to watch Roper and Cinch continue to grow together and become a tight knit little hunting team. Now, it’s time to go see what mischief they thought up.
Humans are not the only creatures in the animal kingdom that can be picky eaters, as all dog owners know, dogs are some of the pickiest. And whether it is because you need something to coax your dog to eat with, or because your dog needs the extra protein, sometimes turning to “canned” or “wet” dog food feels like the only option.

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However, if you are like our household, we’re skeptical about what is actually in that chunky gravy with questionable rice and veggies. Side note – when I was 6, my older sister made me eat wet dog food when I told her I was hungry while under her supervision. I’m still living 24 years later, so maybe the ingredients aren’t that bad, but after knowing what it tastes like, no way could I smell that on my dog’s breath for the rest of their lives. So, we set off to create our own wet kibble topper with ingredients we trusted and cooks we knew (us).

Before setting out to make your own food, be sure to do some research on your dog’s breed, the quantity they should be eating, and if this will be their main food source or a supplemental source. We knew that it was not sustainable to feed two 55+ dogs homemade food everyday, when they both would need 1 pound of protein, 3.5 cups of carbohydrates, and a cup of vegetables every. day. Which is why we opted to go for the supplemental route. I will add though, during hunting season when the activity is a lot higher, I will make bigger serving sizes.

When it comes to actually making the food, it is really easy! And since it’s literal dog food, you don’t have to worry about seasonings or the presentation of the food. The first step is to determine your source of protein and its form. This can be ground or cubed meat. I opt for ground because it’s quicker and it feels like it goes farther. I also own a meat processing machine, so grinding my own meat isn’t a hard feat. Rhyme not intended.

Choose a protein that is appropriate for your dog (always remember you can ask your vet, they would be more than happy to give recommendations), and that it is sustainable. You can also choose two separate proteins, just be sure that you don’t mix it up too often. Our choice of protein is venison and game birds. The majority of the time it’s ground venison that is used as the supplemental protein choice. When it comes to how you cook your meat, again it’s your preference, but I go with the boiling method, only so I can get that gravy like texture that’s just all added flavor and you don’t lose the protein from the meat’s fat rendering down.

The next choice is if you are going to include a carbohydrate. I usually forego during winter when activity levels are lowered, since he is still getting his daily amount of kibble a day. When I do include a carb, I go with brown rice. I make the rice either by normal ricing cooking methods, or I will make it in my instant pot for big batches. When I make it in the instant pot, I will include the veggie (usually carrots) in that mixture. The rice will come out smelling like sweet carrots, and might actually make you want to take a bite. However, stop top work just well, too!

Which brings us to the vegetable. This is completely optional, but does add a nice flavor and nutritional benefit to your dog’s food. There are tons of different veggies to choose from, like pumpkin, peas, and carrots. Here’s a list of veggies & fruits dogs can have. In our household, Roper prefers carrots and pumpkin puree. So I usually go back and forth between the two. But remember, don’t switch it up too frequently. Like I explained above, one way I cook the carrots is with the rice in the instant pot. When I cook if stovetop, I go for a good ol’ classic steam. Once they are soft or semi-soft, I transfer them to the rice and give a good mix.

Once everything is cooked, I separate it all into daily servings, unless it’s protein only, into mason jars. Mason jars have been the only thing I found that doesn’t allow the rice to dry out. After that, you’re done! Besides the dishes unfortunately. The process is really simple and becomes part of the routine. I will add that I cook seven days amount at a time, only to cut back on the actual process. To make the food stay fresh that long, I’ll freeze three jars and pull them out in the morning the day of.

If you only want the meat gravy as a topping, follow the below recipe for just the meat steps, and then store it in one airtight container (aside from the three days, still freeze that!). Then, each day take out a half a cup of the meat gravy and mix into your dogs kibble.

The Copper Dogs Kibble Topper – Wet Dog Food Recipe (Download Available Below):

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Roper proud of all his hard work in the kitchen.
So, the pecking order has become imbalanced in your house, and the dog has determined he’s ruling the coop.

Not a fun place to be. You’re probably scratching your head wondering where you messed up, and if you need to make that dreaded call the vet to schedule a neutering appointment. That is if your dog is still intact. But, imbalance of the pecking order can happen with neutered and even female dogs.

Before making any rash decisions or making any big changes to your dog’s life, take a step back and ask yourself these questions:
1. Is there a clear alpha in control when it comes to the dog?
  - What this means is, is there someone who takes an authoritative stance over the dog and their behavior. This person would do the majority of the feeding, the majority of the discipline, and also clearly shows the dog their place, which goes to question 2.
2. Is the dog being engaged before other family members?
  - Think back to when you get home (or your partner) and the dog is SO excited to greet you. Do you (or your partner) greet the dog first, or is it the family members in your home.
3. Does your dog have their own space?
  - If your dog is kennel trained and loves their kennel, this is their space as long as it’s accessible. If your dog doesn’t have a kennel, do they have somewhere or something (ie. dog bed) that is theirs only, and are not bothered when there.
4. Does your dog have a job?
  - Dogs have an extreme sense of duty, especially if you’re handling with a working breed. If they do not have a job assigned to them, they will assign one themselves. And it’s usually not one you favor, like digging holes in the yard.
Each of these questions when answered honestly will show you where you need to reconstruct… structure! With your dog.

Once you’ve determined there’s some work to do to get your pecking order back in line, now what?

Breaking it down by each question, try implementing these recommendations:
1. Have one person (preferably an adult with homes with kids) do the majority of the feeding. This plays to the old rule, dogs don’t bite the hand that feeds them. But it’s more than that. This person should also be the one that is working skill building with the dog every day, even if it’s only for a couple minutes.
2. Always greet the humans in your home before your dog. Always. Even better, greet them in their “pecking order”. This will reinforce the dogs place in his pack.
3. Get your dog their own designated space that is truly theirs. Then try not bugging them when they are there. This will help them know they can go somewhere when they are tired or feeling anxious.
4. Assign your dog a job. Or multiple jobs. Jobs can be anything from working on the farm, hunting related, play related, household duties – like picking up after themselves, to support services. No dog is too old to learn a job, just find the one that fits your dog best.
So who am I to offer advice on getting your pecking order back in line? I am co-owner to a very strong-willed male Vizsla named Roper (meet Roper here).

Roper is 3 years old and is still intact for many reasons, and one day I’ll write on that, but not today. We never thought that our easy going, people pleaser, hard working dog would ever try to become the alpha male in our home.

This came about after moving for the third time by the time he was two, and losing his older canine sister to cancer. So needless to say, the structure we had raised him on in his puppy years had pretty much demolished.

We were over compensating with affection after the loss of our older dog, and wanted Roper to feel loved. We started a new feeding routine, it was the off-season of hunting, all of these things were adding up, and Roper didn’t like it. And he was going to change things himself.

It wasn’t pretty at first, he started resource guarding our things – like the blanket it on the couch. Stopped eating the amount he needed to be for his activity level, and just not listening worth a damn.

So as I mentioned before as a recommendation of taking a step back. That’s what we did.

We examined everything about the structure around Roper, and we ultimately realized we were to blame. Shocking, right?

The first thing we changed was putting in place a feeding routine where Gage was the one delivering the food. Since Roper is home with me every day, we felt that he needed to view Gage as an authoritative figure in the home again, and not just out in the field.

Which lead us to the second thing we changed, how he was engaged. Roper loves affection, especially when his dad gets home from work. It used to go Roper, then me that is greeted. Once that was changed, Roper quickly learned that his place comes after me. Flash forward to a year later, Roper still gets excited when his human gets home, but respects the order of greetings and knows once it’s his turn, he gets to work.

This one was strange for us because Roper does have a job. He hunts. However, what we didn’t think about was the few months where there is nothing going on, no birds, no big game, not even antler gathering. Roper felt lost and we weren’t suppling him with an outlet to still use those skills. Once we started giving him the opportunity to use those skills (we’re fortunate enough to have a big yard he can run in), he started thriving in the off season. His favorite is watching the birds eat from the feeder. side note, this has been great for his pointing game. And of course his second is a good game of fetch. Everyday he gets to play fetch, and every day we ask him to go find the birds. These little changes completely changed his character.

The last big change we incorporated was making sure he had a place of his own. After outgrowing his second kennel, he decided he didn’t need one anymore. Which meant he no longer had his own space. We gave him his space back by building him a bed, as well has giving him a comfy spot in his favorite room of the house – the hunting gear room. Having two places to escape to, and he knows his time will be respected, has allowed him to regain his peace that was lost.

Of course, all of these are recommendations and just because they worked on Roper, doesn’t mean they will work for you. What will is taking the time to observe and reflect on yourself, and the structure you’ve built around your dog. If you are ever concerned, never hesitate to work with your trusted vet for what is best for your dog and your household.
As a dog’s co-owner, we’ve all been there when you’re both trying to command the dog, and the dog isn’t listening to well, either of you. Only to make the situation more frustrating for everyone involved.

This fun dog parent moment is not uncommon, and it eventually happens to the best of us. However, there are way to help not only yourself out, but your four legged pal.

So the question is, who commands the dog when out?

But, the answer is both of you. Which is conflicting, I know. So let me explain.

You know your dog best, and each of you as owners will have a different kind of bond with your dog.

For me, Roper loves to bring stuff back to me and responds quicker to commands (he’s smitten with his mamma 🥰).

For Gage, Roper doesn’t question his authority and looks to him for guidance in how to proceed. He knows dad is the Alpha in our little pack.

For both of us, Roper needs praise and affection to let him know he’s making us happy with his work.

So, who commands Roper when we’re out? We look at the situation we’re taking him in and determine how we need him to behave, then match with who has the best relationship in that behavior.

For example, when we’re taking people out to hunt upland game, I’ll take the lead with working Roper since he is quicker to bring the downed birds back to me and then get back at it.

When the hunt goes into the woods or public places and the risk factor increases, Gage will take the lead at commanding, because of his relationship of being the alpha male in Roper’s world. Also, because Roper will look to him for what is expected of him (work, play, or sit & observe).

Needless to say, when determining who will take the lead in being the main commander should always come down to how your dog responds to each of you. This will eliminate the need to call for your dog while your partner is also calling for the dog, causing confusion.

When, not if, because all dog owners know that dogs can be stubborn, one of you needs to step in as support, be sure not to talk over each other. Let the commanding owner finish their command and pause for at least 5 seconds before asking your dog the same command.

Please note, If this is an emergency situation, do what is needed for your dogs safety, but adding any type of anxious frantic energy into the air by both yelling will only confuse the dog into not following the order.

If you’re not sure what kind of bond you and your partner have created with your dog, the simplest way is through play. Whichever fun outlet your dog prefers, both of you engage and focus on how your dog reacts. Does one of you throw the ball, but they bring it back to the other? Who does the dog make more eye contact with?

Other things to think about when it comes to determining the type of bond you have with your dog is who they go to for certain things, like food and nurturing, and who is more likely to discipline.

The person that does the majority of the feeding and discipline will be the owner that the dog views as alpha. The person that nurtures and plays more will be the person they strive to make happy. However, in some cases, the dog will choose only one if its co-owners as its commander. The most important thing is to observe and identify the bond that has been created between human and canine.

And just like how people change as they grow and learn, these bonds can shift, especially as our own interactions evolve with the dog.

If you have a particularly stubborn dog who doesn’t take either of you seriously, it may because they don’t see you as alpha, and they believe they are the pack leader. Check out Lessons from Roper: Establishing the Pecking Order, where I break down how the pack order can be disrupted, and what to do to put your strong-willed friend lovingly back into place. Also look out for the blog coming soon that’s all about E-Collars, the controversy behind them, but why we love them as a safety resource out in the field.

Time to go work on that bond with the newest Copper Dog, Cinch, and to validate mine and Roper’s through cuddles and play.
Introducing a new dog, primarily a puppy, into an already structured home with daily routines already in place might not be the happy walk in the park like movies make it out to be. Especially if you already have a dog in the home that is set in their ways, and maybe not all that fond of being bugged. So when the time came to make the decision of growing our four-legged family, it was not taken lightly, and we did our best to set up both dogs (and us) for success.

Before bringing the new puppy home, we knew we had to prepare ourselves, our home, and our Roper boy (the first copper dog) the best we could, as to not completely flip life as we knew around. To help ease all of us, but mostly Roper, we took the following steps to help prepare for the new puppy;
1. Puppy Visits! Before it was time to take our new puppy home, we worked with the breeder to visit frequently. I highly recommend getting as much interaction with your new pup prior to bringing them home, especially if you have other animals in the home. This will help the puppy transition quicker if they already feel like they know you. Bonus if you are able to let dog #1 ride along in the vehicle to get the fresh smells from you & potentially meet the new little one in a neutral environment.
2. Get all of the scents. Not only can it be overwhelming for your current doggo, going to a new home can be scary for a new puppy. Before the first visit, pick out a blanket or towel that can become the new dog’s. Let your first dog lay in it, or rub them down with the blanket or towel. You will then want to take this on your puppy visits, let them smell it and also wrap them up in it. After the each visit, let your older dog have it back to soak up the puppy smells. By allowing both dogs get familiar with each other’s scent beforehand, they will already feel acquainted.
3. Go shopping! Okay, okay, this one sounds like a gimme, but is so important! Go shopping for all the puppy needs PRIOR to bringing them home. You will have your hands full as it is, and it won’t be fun for anyone scrambling last second to get all of the essentials. However, unlike any google search that will give you a crazy long list, just make sure you have the following for a seamless first few days:
  - Puppy Food & Training Treats (Don’t be scared to ask the breeder what puppy food they started the litter on).
  - Food & Water bowl
  - Collar & Lead
  - Teething Toys (fun fact: They make actual teething toys for dogs now)
  - Appropriate sized crate – Regardless if you want to continue to crate train, having a small crate will make car rides safer and a place for the puppy to rest when you need some personal time. You know, for things like showering.
  - Optional: Puppy Pads. If you do not have a yard to immediately start potty training in, puppy pads make a great alternative!
4. Puppy Space & Proofing. Before bringing the new little rascal home, puppy proof your home! Yes, it is a thing. And yes, it should be done. Now, it doesn’t have to be extensive, but anything you cherish and don’t want to find in your puppy’s mouth, pick it up. Along with proofing the home, you should also make sure there is a designated space for food, water, and where their crate or bed will be. Once dogs are older, feel free to move those things wherever, but when they are young, consistency is key.
5. Select a Vet: If this isn’t your first dog, odds are you already have a loved and trusted vet. If you don’t, find one and schedule your first appointment prior to bringing the puppy home. Many vets now days are booked out at weeks at a time, and missing a crucial shot appointment can put your new puppy at risk of all sorts of deadly illnesses. Don’t forget to also get any records of appointments from your breeder, like first round of shots, if they were dewclaws were removed, and if applicable, their tail docking recording.
The most important tip however is to be prepared to be flexible. If this is a second dog, or even a third dog, remember that all dogs learn differently and at different speeds.

And I’m off to wrangle Roper and Cinch!